부산대학교 도서관

To purchase or authenticate to the full-text of this article, please visit this link: http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/j.1468-2494.2008.00424.x Byline: P. Perugini (*), M. Vettor (*), C. Rona ([dagger]), L. Troisi ([double dagger]), L. Villanova (s.), I. Genta (*), B. Conti (*), F. Pavanetto (*) Keywords: biophenols; lenitive property; photoageing; radical-scavenging activity; UVB irradiation Abstract: Synopsis Oleuropein, a phenolic compound derived from olive leaves and oil, is known to possess several biological properties, many of which may be attributed to its antioxidant and free radical-scavenging activities. Nevertheless, up to now, the cosmetic activity of this molecule has not been extensively investigated. The aim of this work was to evaluate the cosmetic properties of oleuropein against UVB-induced erythema. To this end, an emulsion and an emulgel containing oleuropein were prepared, applied and evaluated on healthy volunteers who had undergone UVB irradiation to investigate its protective and/or lenitive activity. Protective effect was assayed by application of topical preparations before irradiation and lenitive effect was evaluated after erythema induction. Vitamin E was used as the reference compound. Our study was carried out by using noninvasive techniques to assess specific skin parameters: barrier function, skin colour and microcirculation. Results clearly showed that oleuropein formulations highlighted lenitive efficacy by reducing erythema, transepidermal water loss and blood flow of about 22%, 35% and 30% respectively. The study allowed us to point out the lenitive property of oleuropein, opening the way to further trials to deepen our specific knowledge about this natural molecule, which could be used in association with other active ingredients in cosmetics to repair UV damages. Abstract (French) Resume L'oleuropeine, la substance phenolique derive des feuilles d'olive et l'huile, est connue pour posseder plusieurs proprietes biologiques, dont beaucoup peuvent etre attribuees a ses activites antioxidant et radical-scavenger. Jusqu'ici, l'activite cosmetique de cette molecule n'a pas ete intensivement etudiee. Le but de ce travail etait d'evaluer les proprietes cosmetiques de l'oleuropeine contre l'erytheme induit par les UVB. A ce but, des formulations contenant oleuropeine ont ete prepares, appliques sur des volontaires et evalues pour etudier les activites protectrice et/ou lenitive de la molecule. On a analyse l'effet protecteur par l'application des preparations topiques avant que l'irradiation UVB et l'effet lenitive apres induction d'erytheme. La vitamine E a ete employee comme substance de reference. Notre etude a ete effectuee en employant des techniques pour l'evaluation des parametres specifiques de la peau: la fonction barriere, la couleur et la microcirculation. Les resultats clairement ont prouve que les formulations d'oleuropeine ont accentue l'efficacite lenitive reduisant l'erythema, la perte d'eau transepidermal et FDL environ de 22%, 35%, 30%, respectivement. Des autres etudes sont en programme pour approfondir la connaissance specifique de cette molecule naturelle, qui pourrait etre employee, en association avec d'autres substances actives, en produits de beaute pour reparer les dommages produits par la radiation UV. Author Affiliation: (*)Department of Pharmaceutical Chemistry, University of Pavia, Pavia ([dagger])Dermatological Department, IRCSS Policlinico San Matteo, Pavia ([double dagger])Department of Biological Sciences and Technologies, University of Lecce, Lecce (s.)Lachifarma s.r.l., Zollino, Lecce, Italy Article History: Received 6 April 2007, Accepted 27 November 2007 Article note: Paola Perugini, Department of Pharmaceutical Chemistry, University of Pavia, V.le Taramelli 12, 27100 Pavia, Italy. Tel.: +390382987363; fax: +390382422975; e-mail: paola.perugini@unipv.it