부산대학교 도서관

In this study we present an early history of creating longitudinal three-dimensional textile structures, which might be produced by folding and pressing ready-woven cloth, but also by various spinning and weaving techniques such as spin patterning or barred damasks. They all have ONE thing in common: they result in the visual appearance of a pleated structure, a three-dimensional longitudinal pattern which produces a special effect. In this article we follow the history of pleated structures from 4000 BC to AD 1000. Archaeological textile finds from Central and Western Europe with some glimpse of Egypt are the basis of the different aspects of garments with pleats or a ribbed structure - including some thoughts on body language, visual effects and textile identity. We review well known finds and present new data. Pleated textiles have been known for centuries, even millennia! Such attempts to produce three-dimensional structures started in prehistory, already during the late Neolithic Period. Linen textiles woven in tabby found in lake-dwellings and dated to the 4th millennium BC show horizontal lines woven in twill. These lines in another pattern than the main weave tend to be higher and three-dimensional. Later in Iron Age pleated garments have been created by experimenting with spin-patterning. Pleated garments are well visible on pictorial sources of that period. During the Early Medieval Period, pleated garments have been made technically in two ways, either by hand-pleating after weaving or creating the pleats in the weave (so-called "Rippenköper", a twill variant). It seems to have been a fashion worn by rich Germanic women (tunic) and men (mantle); the variant with woven pleats have been made only in Alemannic areas (South Germany/Bavaria and North-East Switzerland). [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]