학술논문
당(唐)조 여자복식이미지를 활용한 복식디자인 연구 / A study on fashion design of Tang dynasty focusing on female fashion image
Document Type
Dissertation/ Thesis
Source
Subject
Language
Korean
Abstract
중국역사 상에서 당나라는 정치, 경제, 문화 분야에 뛰어난 성과를 얻었던 전성기라고 할 수 있다. 당나라는 중국 고대문명의 가장 활발한 시기였으며, 세계적으로도 앞서 나가는 위치에 있었다. 후세에게는 강대한 국력, 맑고 깨끗한 정치, 번창한 경제와 태평천하의 사회로 깊은 인상을 남길뿐만아니라 찬란한 문화도 당나라의 두드러지는 장점이다. 당조의 여자 복식은 초기에는 좁은 소매, 짧은 저고리에 긴 치마가 주를 이루었으나 당의 전성기 이후에는 소매가 넓어지고 커졌다. 또 피백(披帛)을 착용하였는데 보통 가볍고 얇은 사(紗), 라(羅)로 만들었다. 긴 것은 일반적으로 2m이상 되어 양 어깨에 걸쳐 걸을 때는 자연스럽게 움직여 아름다움을 나타냈다.당대 부녀 복식은 삼(衫), 유(襦) 외에 반비(半臂)의 상의가 유행했는데 처음에는 궁녀들의 옷이었으나 민간에게까지 전해졌다. 당 중기 이후는 반비의 착용이 점차 줄어들었다. 반비(半臂)는 반소매의 짧은 저고리에서 나온 복식의 일종인데 그형태는 맞깃이며 길이는 허리까지 오고 가슴 앞에 띠를 매어 여몄다.호복은 천보년간(天寶年間)에 유행하였는데 번령(젖힌깃)에 통좁은 소매의 포이다.당대 부녀자들의 머리쓰개는 전신을 감싸는 멱리(冪䍦)가 있고 이것은 점차 유모(帷帽),호모(胡帽)로 성행하였다.당 초기에는 여자들의 머리형태가 비교적 간단하였으나 태종 때에 점점높아져 형태가 더욱더 풍부하게 되었으며 머리 위에 각종 비녀나 빗 등으로 화려하게 장식하였다. 천보년간 이후에 가발이 유행하였고 오대 전성기에는 고계(高髻) 위에 각종 꽃가지를 꽂았다.귀족여자의 복식으로 황후(皇后)의 복식은 2종류가 있다. 위의(褘衣)는 착용시 상색(裳色)을 따라 폐슬(蔽膝)을 착용하였다고 하였는데 상색은 심청색(深青色)이니 심청색의 폐슬을 착용하였다. 폐슬은 감색(緅色)으로 영연(領緣)을 삼았고 적문(翟紋)을 3등으로 무늬를 나타냈다. 국의(鞠衣) 착용은 친잠(親蠶)할 때 입는 것으로 황라(黃羅)로 만들었고 폐슬(蔽膝)은 의색을 따라 황색이다. 감색(緅色)으로 연식(綠飾)하였고 적문(翟紋) 3등이다.당조 여자 복식은 가장 유행하였던 유군복(襦裙服)과 호복(胡服),“여성신사복”인 여착남장(女著男裝)의 세 종류의 조합이 특징이다. 특히 전반적으로 노출이 특징이다. 현대복식 요소가 매우 많아서 네크라인은 깊은 V라인으로 파이며 매우 예쁘고 화려해서, 근대의 의복 디자인에도 많은 영감을 주었다. 따라서 당조 여자의 복식 예술 연구를 통하여 현대 의복의 디자인에 응용과 개발은 의미가 있다. 당대 여자의 기본옷으로는 유(襦), 삼(衫), 오(襖), 반비(半臂), 군(裙), 피백(披帛), 호복(胡服) 등이 있다.봉건사회에 있어서 한송이 광채무비한 아름다운 장미꽃이라고 이를 수 있다. 작품1 작품은 중말기 당나라시대 귀부인들의 복식 모양을 응용하였다. 상유(上襦)는 큰 소매 셔츠를 적용 하였으며 큰소매는 아치형이다. 소재는 당나라의 고귀한 탁황색(拓黄色)이며 가볍고 투명한 사(纱)를 적용 하였으며 가벼운사로 몸을 가리는 장식의 특징을 나타내였다. 당나라 여성들은 투명한 사의(纱衣)를 즐기 였으며 나중에 5대(五代)까지 전파되었다. 사라(纱罗)를 여성 의복의 소재로 하는것은 당나라 여성 의복중의 중요한 특색이다.유군(襦裙)은 몸에 부착된 긴 치마를 형태로하며 아래 부분은 아크형을 적용하여 큰 소매 셔츠의 아크형 소매 모양과 대응하였다. 유군은 가슴을 절반만 가리는 것으로 당나라의 “핑크 가슴을 절반가리여 숨겨진 눈설인가(粉胸半掩疑暗雪)”의 특징을 나타내였다. 유군은 비교적 두꺼우며 “보상화문(宝相花纹)”과 상사한 소재를 사용 하였다. 컬러는 조금 어두운 대추 적색을 적용하였으며 금황색 “당초문(唐草纹)” 소재로 칼라의 가장자리와 허리띠를 만들었다.작품2 백조모군(百鸟毛裙)은 당나라에서 가장 딜럭스한 치마 이다. 작품의 상의 가장자리는 서로다른 컬러인 깃털을 적용 하였다. 또한 전지화(缠枝花)을 상의의 무늬로 하였으며 칼라는 사각형을 적용하였으며 무늬는 금황색 “당초문(唐草纹)”을 적용하였다. 치마는 적색인 “보상화문(宝相花纹)”, 금색인 “당초문”,남색인 “전지화(缠枝花)”등 4가지 무늬를 서로 결합 시켰다.작품3 상의는 당나라에서 유행하는 반비(半臂)의 형태를 적용하였으며 칼라 입구가 넓고 크며 가슴이 드러나는 모양이다. 반비의 아래 부분은 밖으로 나타난다. 수공으로 자수한 “당초문(唐草纹)”은 칼라 가장자리 및 가슴앞의 대칭하는 문금(门襟)을 형성한다. “헬멧(盔甲)”과 상사한 모양으로 상의의 어깨 부분을 구성하였다. 길이가 무릎 이상인 넓은 유군(襦裙). 소재는 투명한 화이트 사라(纱罗)를 적용 하였으며 무늬는 비교적 큰 “보상화문”을 위주로 한다.
In Chinese history, the Tang dynasty can be called the golden age with many achievements in political, economic and cultural fields. The Tang dynasty is the most dynamic period in Chinese ancient civilization and even takes its place in the front ranks of the world. It not only leave behind a peace society with strong national strength, clean politics and flourishing economy, splendid cultures are the obvious advantage of this dynasty as well.Tang dynasty feminine costume is in the form of narrow sleeves, short blouses and long skirts. After the prime period, sleeves get wider and much loose. Meanwhile, it also uses Phi Tang silk, which is usually made of light silk or gauze. In general, the long ones can be more than two meters long, which lies across the shoulders and moves naturally when women walking, seeming much beautiful.The main popular feminine costumes in the Tang dynasty are shirts, short jackets and half-sleeve upper dresses, which are garments for palace maids at the very start and then spread to folk. Half-Sleeve costumes become fewer after the middle period of the Tang dynasty. Half-Sleeve is a short sleeved upper dress, which is in the form of front opening, with a length reaching the waist and with straps over the breast. Hu Fu is the popular feminine costume during the Tang Tianbao years, which uses lapels and narrow-sleeve robes. The cloth covers worn on the heads of the women in the Tang dynasty can muffle the whole body, which gradually become Curtain caps and Hu caps.In early Tang dynasty, the hair styles of women are relatively simple, and gradually become higher during the Taizong period, with more and more plentiful styles and nobly decorated with hair clasps or comb around the head. Wigs are prevalent in the Tang Tianbao years, and in the flourishing time of the Five Dynasties, various flowers are inserted on GaoJi.Costumes for queens, as noble feminine garments, have two types. When Hui garments are dressed, shelters should match with the colors of the skirts, which means that if the skirt is in dark cyan, the shelters should also be dark cyan. Shelters take Zou colors for collar edges, and the patterns on cloth are Zhai Pattern in three grades. Ju garments are dressed in Qincan ceremonies. They are made of yellow gauze, and the shelters are in yellow as well matching with the shirts colors. They also take Zou colors for edge decorating, and the patterns are Zhai Pattern in three grades.Tang dynasty feminine costumes are characterized by the most popular Slip Skirts, HuFu and Cross-dressing, which is also called “feminine man wear”. And especially, most of them are exposing. Modern costumes have many factors, and Tang dynasty costumes also provide a lot of inspirations for the designs of modern dresses. The neck lines adopt deep-V collars, seeming much beautiful and gorgeous. Meanwhile, Tang Dynasty feminine costumes’ arts make it more significant for the application and development of the modern dress designing. The basic ones of Tang dynasty feminine costumes include short jackets, shirts, coats, Half-Sleeve, skirts, Phi Tang silk, Hu Fu, etc., which can be distinguished as a bright beautiful rose in feudal society.Works 1: It uses the style of noble feminine costume. The short jackets use big-sleeved shirt, whose sleeves are arc-shaped. And they are made of Tang dynasty noble yellow silks, light and transparent. They are characterized by costumes of covering body with light gauzes. Females in the Tang dynasty like dressing themselves with transparent gauzes and this come down to until the Five Dynasties. It is a most important characteristic of Tang dynasty feminine costume to use silk and gauze as the apparel fabric. Slip Skirts are in the shape of close-fitting long skirts and the sweeps are also in arc shape to match with the arc-shaped wide sleeves. This kind of skirts can cover half chest to highlight the characteristic of “half-covered pink bosoms seem as white as snow” in the Tang dynasty. They are made of thicker materials seemingly like “Baoxiang Pattern”. They use slant dark date red color and take golden “Tangcao Pattern” cloth for collar edges and waistbands. Works 2: Bird plume skirts are the most magnificent ones in the Tang dynasty. The edges of the upper garments are made of plumes in different colors. As well, they take flowers pattern for upper garments, and use square necklines for collars, which are in golden “Tangcao Pattern”. The skirts are in the four-mixed pattern of red “Baoxiang flower Pattern”, golden “Tangcao flower Pattern”, blue “Flower Pattern” and white “Flower Pattern”.Works 3: The upper garments use prevalent style of “Half- Sleeve” in the Tang dynasty, with wide necklines and in the style of bosom exposed. And the sweeps of “Half-Sleeve” are external. They adopt hand embroidery “Tangcao Pattern” to make collar edges and symmetrical front edges in the chest. And they use cloth materials similar to “corselet” to make the shoulders of the upper garments.Slip Skirts are wide and loose, with a length reaching above the knees. The cloth materials are white silk and gauze, and the patterns are based on “Baoxiang Pattern”.
In Chinese history, the Tang dynasty can be called the golden age with many achievements in political, economic and cultural fields. The Tang dynasty is the most dynamic period in Chinese ancient civilization and even takes its place in the front ranks of the world. It not only leave behind a peace society with strong national strength, clean politics and flourishing economy, splendid cultures are the obvious advantage of this dynasty as well.Tang dynasty feminine costume is in the form of narrow sleeves, short blouses and long skirts. After the prime period, sleeves get wider and much loose. Meanwhile, it also uses Phi Tang silk, which is usually made of light silk or gauze. In general, the long ones can be more than two meters long, which lies across the shoulders and moves naturally when women walking, seeming much beautiful.The main popular feminine costumes in the Tang dynasty are shirts, short jackets and half-sleeve upper dresses, which are garments for palace maids at the very start and then spread to folk. Half-Sleeve costumes become fewer after the middle period of the Tang dynasty. Half-Sleeve is a short sleeved upper dress, which is in the form of front opening, with a length reaching the waist and with straps over the breast. Hu Fu is the popular feminine costume during the Tang Tianbao years, which uses lapels and narrow-sleeve robes. The cloth covers worn on the heads of the women in the Tang dynasty can muffle the whole body, which gradually become Curtain caps and Hu caps.In early Tang dynasty, the hair styles of women are relatively simple, and gradually become higher during the Taizong period, with more and more plentiful styles and nobly decorated with hair clasps or comb around the head. Wigs are prevalent in the Tang Tianbao years, and in the flourishing time of the Five Dynasties, various flowers are inserted on GaoJi.Costumes for queens, as noble feminine garments, have two types. When Hui garments are dressed, shelters should match with the colors of the skirts, which means that if the skirt is in dark cyan, the shelters should also be dark cyan. Shelters take Zou colors for collar edges, and the patterns on cloth are Zhai Pattern in three grades. Ju garments are dressed in Qincan ceremonies. They are made of yellow gauze, and the shelters are in yellow as well matching with the shirts colors. They also take Zou colors for edge decorating, and the patterns are Zhai Pattern in three grades.Tang dynasty feminine costumes are characterized by the most popular Slip Skirts, HuFu and Cross-dressing, which is also called “feminine man wear”. And especially, most of them are exposing. Modern costumes have many factors, and Tang dynasty costumes also provide a lot of inspirations for the designs of modern dresses. The neck lines adopt deep-V collars, seeming much beautiful and gorgeous. Meanwhile, Tang Dynasty feminine costumes’ arts make it more significant for the application and development of the modern dress designing. The basic ones of Tang dynasty feminine costumes include short jackets, shirts, coats, Half-Sleeve, skirts, Phi Tang silk, Hu Fu, etc., which can be distinguished as a bright beautiful rose in feudal society.Works 1: It uses the style of noble feminine costume. The short jackets use big-sleeved shirt, whose sleeves are arc-shaped. And they are made of Tang dynasty noble yellow silks, light and transparent. They are characterized by costumes of covering body with light gauzes. Females in the Tang dynasty like dressing themselves with transparent gauzes and this come down to until the Five Dynasties. It is a most important characteristic of Tang dynasty feminine costume to use silk and gauze as the apparel fabric. Slip Skirts are in the shape of close-fitting long skirts and the sweeps are also in arc shape to match with the arc-shaped wide sleeves. This kind of skirts can cover half chest to highlight the characteristic of “half-covered pink bosoms seem as white as snow” in the Tang dynasty. They are made of thicker materials seemingly like “Baoxiang Pattern”. They use slant dark date red color and take golden “Tangcao Pattern” cloth for collar edges and waistbands. Works 2: Bird plume skirts are the most magnificent ones in the Tang dynasty. The edges of the upper garments are made of plumes in different colors. As well, they take flowers pattern for upper garments, and use square necklines for collars, which are in golden “Tangcao Pattern”. The skirts are in the four-mixed pattern of red “Baoxiang flower Pattern”, golden “Tangcao flower Pattern”, blue “Flower Pattern” and white “Flower Pattern”.Works 3: The upper garments use prevalent style of “Half- Sleeve” in the Tang dynasty, with wide necklines and in the style of bosom exposed. And the sweeps of “Half-Sleeve” are external. They adopt hand embroidery “Tangcao Pattern” to make collar edges and symmetrical front edges in the chest. And they use cloth materials similar to “corselet” to make the shoulders of the upper garments.Slip Skirts are wide and loose, with a length reaching above the knees. The cloth materials are white silk and gauze, and the patterns are based on “Baoxiang Pattern”.